10%

Returning to Tallinn

11 years later

By Luke Beard

July 7^th, 2024

Exposure.co, the website you are looking at right now, would not exist without Tallinn. The capital city of Estonia, home to around 400,000 people, rests on the shores of the Gulf of Finland.

Eleven years ago, a plucky mid-20s me visited some friends and brought along my new Canon 5D III. The photos I took on that trip became the catalyst for building my first company, Exposure—an answer to the question, “Where do I post photo stories?”

Returning to Estonia after over a decade, to attend a wedding and see those same friends, was quite the feeling. Personally and professionally, a lot has happened since my first visit, and this summer trip to one of my minutes cities bookended a very specific chapter in my life. I’m grateful for the friends that brought us there.

The city has grown and developed since I last came but remains incredibly charming and approachable.

Let me tell you about some highlights.

Helsinki → Tallinn

Flying to Helsinki was considerably cheaper than taking multiple layovers to Tallinn. This meant we had to take the two-hour ferry from the Tallink terminal, about 20 minutes from the HEL airport. Tallink calls itself “The nicest way to cross the Baltic Sea,” and I can wholeheartedly confirm that’s true. From the Helsinki terminal design to the ferry itself, it was a really beautiful and fun experience.

Very much worth it and good people watching.

A scale mode of the Helsinki ferry terminal

The ferry itself felt like a modern hotel

With warm interior design and about a million places to sit, eat, and drink. The crowd was a nice mix of calm, a little rowdy, and people staring at the ocean.

Two hours flew by, and I think it melted any post-12-hour travel blues I may have had lingering.

It never gets dark

The sun barely sets in Estonia at this time of year so the first evening was spent on a dusk lit wander and finding dinner. One thing of note with this trip, the app, WordofMouth was a great help with finding spots to eat. Really well designed and curated.

R14 was our first dinner. A restaurant and wine shop built in the former power plant building of the Rotermann Quarter, it’s one of the biggest restaurants in Tallinn and has received several Michelin stars. A great start.

Wandering with light that seems to stop setting around blue hour is a real treat for someone who now lives in the "south" of the United States. We get excited when the sun goes down at 9:45PM.

Tallinn has a "Old town" that truly feels it and is a joy to shoot.

PÄRIS in Tallinn

The following day, we wandered to PÄRIS, a Parisian brasserie and metropolitan restaurant. I was mostly drawn in by the design of the green marble and walls, but as suspected, it was delicious, and they make a hell of a Last Word.

Staying at Citybox

We stumbled on Citybox while researching where to stay, it ended up being one of the better finds of the whole trip. It's a well designed, super simple hotel that is kind of like an elevated motel. Cute brand and design, minimal and friendly staff. We barely spent any time there but it fitted

What Tallinn has done with the city is quite remarkable. It is impossibly easy to navigate, clean, safe, and affordable. The city possesses a unique party-city kind of energy, with vibrant nightlife and a lively atmosphere. However, this is just a small aspect of Tallinn’s charm. The true beauty of the city lies in its seamless blend of old and new. Medieval architecture and cobblestone streets coexist harmoniously with modern buildings and contemporary amenities.

This balance reflects the city’s commitment to preserving its rich history while embracing progress and innovation. The result is a dynamic, multifaceted urban landscape that offers something for everyone, from history buffs to modern-day explorers.

I don't know what was going on here.

As a big advocate for trains, this shots feel me with a lot of good feelings.

I'd like to talk about Peet Ruut

"Zesty and funky restaurant in Tallinn Old Town." is how Peet Ruut describes itself. And they are correct.

We ended up staying here for hours, nuzzled up in the back corner of their patio. Drinking orange wine, eating almost everything on the menu and feeling incredibly lucky.

And again, a treat to photograph. We acutally came back the following day. It's easily one of my favorite restaurants I've ever been to.

Get the beef cheeks.

Remember that one scene from Tenet?

The Estonian Art Museum (KUMU) is one of the many Tallinn locations that makes an appearance in Tenet. And while that is pretty cool, the museum itself is better.

Set into a brutalist backdrop with a huge gallery selection. From contemporary to modern. Take the streetcar back to down.

See you soon Tallinn.

I'll leave you with one of my favorite photos from the trip. I met a good friends twins for the first time and the are some of the most adorable children I've ever seen.